Last week, I took a short break from my slow-travel / digital nomad / author life with a quick side trip into Chiang Mai on my way to surprise my mother for her birthday.
Tbh, this is the first time I've heard of a vegan hotel, but I knew I HAD to stay here during short stay in Chiang Mai. AWAY Chiang Mai Thapae Resort is a bright little oasis nestled in the city. At check in, I was welcomed with a refreshing butterfly pea flower tea, and there was a lovely box of treats in the room which included traditional flower-shaped cookies called Khanom Kleeb Lamduan ขนมกลีบลำดวน, named after the lamduan flower that they’re shaped like. These shortbread cookies were buttery and had a nuanced smokiness to them, which I LOVED! I learned that the smoky flavor comes from Tian Op เทียนอบ, a Thai culinary candle that is infused with a variety of essential oils. The baked cookies are placed in an airtight container with a just-extinguished candle to infuse the nuanced flavors and smokiness into the cookies. If you ever see these cookies in Thailand, you must try them (though if you’re vegan, best to check if they are made with lard).
With a focus on holistic wellness, the resort has two swimming pools, a 24-hour fitness room and a yoga room where you can also book a private aerial yoga / pilates mat class. On the second floor, the Nirand Naam Spa offers wellness experiences for both body and mind, including massages, ice baths, and other healing sessions such as reiki, meditation, breathwork, and sound baths.
I stayed in a poolside room which was perfect for me to step right out into a narrow, but lengthy, swimming pool to do a couple pre-dinner laps. And while it isn’t usually top-of-mind when it comes to hotel toiletries, it made me feel good knowing that, being a vegan resort, all the bath and body products are cruelty-free. I also loved the commitment to sustainability by reducing plastic waste, with a refillable glass bottle in the room and water stations on the premises.
Moreganic is the resort's all-vegan restaurant that is certified by Veggie Hotels. They have two extensive menus, Thai and Western, and both are filled with a variety of vibrant plant-based dishes. Of course, I opted for Thai, and the dishes I selected are regional to northern Thailand, though their Avocado Open Sandwich was an enticing and beautiful display of flavors and textures. Note that in alignment with the Buddhist principles of sobriety, AWAY is an alcohol-free environment.
A must-try Northern Thai dish is Khao Soi ข้าวซอย, a creamy curried coconut noodle soup with chicken. It’s topped with crispy fried noodles and served with fresh lime, pickled cabbage, and shallots,. The mock chicken, made out of a densely-packed tofu skin (I think), had the same texture as chicken thigh meat and even had a charred “skin”. The soup was flavorful and coconutty, yet not too heavy.
The Kra Pao Moo Krob กระเพราหมูกรอบ, crispy pork belly with basil was texturally incredible—fatty, chewy, and melt-in-your-mouth. While the restaurant gets their plant-based meats from suppliers, I perused Thai YouTube and found out that you can make it by layering soy protein sheets with a rice flour mixture. The layered blocks are then steamed, frozen, cut, deep-fried until crispy, and then stir-fried with fresh chilis, garlic, seasonings and deep-fried holy basil (tulsi). This dish is often served with steamed rice.
Having had an early dinner, I had time to explore a couple of Chiang Mai’s night markets to see what vegan options were available–although the ones I went to were gentrified and full of tourists, there was definitely a lot of plant-based dishes to choose from including these dreamy Khanom Krok ขนมครก, freshly made Coconut Pancakes made with rice flour, coconut milk and a little sugar. For flavors, they were sprinkled with a pinch of chopped coconut meat, corn, spring onion, shredded taro, sweet potato, and pumpkin–corn was my favorite! The pancakes were creamy and molten complimented with a delicate toasted crispy shell (here’s a video of my night market finds). I also stumbled upon an the story life style shop which is a haven for tiny wooden spoons, trays, and cutting boards. I’m honestly considering setting up an online shop with all my travel finds. What do you think?
After a good night’s sleep, and still dreaming of those freshly made coconut pancakes, I was ready for breakfast which is served from 7am to 10am. Moreganic has a full breakfast buffet and Seiva Brunchery, their newest eatery located in the resort’s extension, has a smaller breakfast bar but also includes Western and Asian a la carte menu options like a cozy mushroom congee, scrambled tofu, or cinnamon french toast. Both buffets serve fresh fruit, salad, breads, housemade mango, kiwi, and passionfruit jams, and you can make your own fresh-pressed juice! I made mine with lots of beetroot and fresh ginger–the most cleansing and energetic way to start the day! Even though I only stayed for one night, I felt refreshed and recharged–AWAY was an ideal home away from home.
A RECIPE
KHAO NIAO MAMUANG ข้าวเหนียวมะม่วง or Mango & Sticky Rice, is a beloved Thai dessert that is the ultimate combination of flavors–aromatic steamed rice, sweet fresh mango and creamy coconut with a pinch of salt Sometimes additional toppings, like toasted sesame seeds or crispy mung beans (golden lentils), are added to compliment the texture of the rice and mango.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
4 ripe mangos, half a mango per serving
2 Tbsp crispy mung beans or toasted sesame seeds, optional
FOR THE RICE:
2 cups [430 g] glutinous rice (aka sweet rice), soaked in water for at least 3 hours or overnight
16 oz water
FOR THE COCONUT SAUCE:
1 can 13.5 fl oz [400 ml] coconut milk
2 Tbsp sugar, light maple syrup, or agave
1/8 tsp salt
2 tsp cornstarch, rice flour, or tapioca starch, dissolved in 1 Tbsp of water
Drain the soaked rice and place it into a steamer basket. If the holes of the basket are large, line the basket with a cheesecloth. Fill a large pot with 1” [2.5 cm] water and bring it to a boil on high heat. Carefully place the filled steamer basket into the pot. Turn the heat down to medium, cover, and steam for 20 minutes. Transfer the rice into a large heatproof bowl.
In a small saucepan on medium-low heat, combine the coconut milk, sugar and cornstarch slurry, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt.
While the rice is still hot, pour half of the coconut sauce in, mixing it well. Reserve the remaining sauce for serving.
Serve at room temperature with fresh mango and sprinkles, if using.
SHOPPING
I spent the morning picking up vitamins and groceries for my mom at Rimping Supermarket, the “Whole Foods” of Chiang Mai, did a little thrifting next door at KT second hand (my daughter’s rec), and had lunch with my friend Andy Ricker, award-winning chef, Chiang Mai resident, and expert on northern Thai cuisine, who gave me tons of insight to places for me to check out on my next visit to Chiang Mai and the surrounding area!
GETTING AROUND
Chiang Mai is definitely NOT a walking city, you barely see people walking unless they’re tourists, and everyone was surprised when I told them I walked everywhere (except I took a Grab to and from One Nimman). There aren’t any sidewalks and navigating traffic is a bit aggressive.
📍 AWAY Chiang Mai Thapae Resort – 9 Thapae Rd Soi 5, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chang Wat Chiang Mai 50100, Thailand (here’s a video of my stay)
📍 Phaploen Market พาเพลิน มาร์เก็ต – 25, 31 Changklan Rd, Chang Moi Sub-district, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand
📍One Nimman วัน นิมมาน – 1-1 One 1-5 Nimmanahaeminda Road, เมือง Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand
📍the story life style shop – Q2P2+J3H, Chang Moi Sub-district, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50100, Thailand
📍KT second hand ร้านเสื้อผ้ามือสองเกรด A – Q2M4+CCC, Osathaphan Rd, Tambon Wat Ket, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50000, Thailand
📍Rimping Supermarket – 129 Chiang Mai-Lam Phun Rd, Wat Ket, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50000, Thailand
It’s a small list, but here is the VIBRANT CHIANG MAI MAP that includes some other highly spots that were recommended to me that I didn’t get to go to —I’ll also add more to this map when I come back, tentatively before the holidays.
Next stop, Saigon!
